My adventure comes to an end

Fifteen days, over 1500 miles, and countless memories.

All good things must come to an and and today is the end for me. One last venture on the Great River Road lead me to Oak Alley Plantation and Laura Plantation. It was quite interesting comparing the two plantations which are only a few miles apart. Laura is a creole plantation while Oak Alley has a history embedded in old New Orleans and St. Louis. Both plantations grew sugarcane, which is still abundant in the area. Once again, the contract between the slave quarters and the plantation homes really bothered me and left me with such a uneasy feeling. I'm glad I had the opportunity to view these areas and spend time wandering the grounds of both plantations.

This seemed to be a fitting end to my adventure which was based on life along the Mississippi and how the river impacted life. 

Listening to locals is important

My goal was to make it to the end of the Great River Road, out on route 1 in Venice, Louisiana. When people heard this they were rather taken aback ...."in a small car?", "Did you hear the forecast?" I became concerned with the comments being made and questioned a bit further. One thing I did know was that the water and road were at the same level. Something I did hear was that thunderstorms were reported pretty much daily...and came up quickly, and caused quite a bit of flooding. I also knew that I would be driving out on this type of road for at least an hour and a half.

After quite a bit of soul-searching and investigating, I decided it was not in y best interest to take the trip down to the end of the road...Best decision ever!

After researching and mapquesting, I decided to change up my plans yet again and stay a bit closer. I headed off to Shell Beach, population 202. This town was on another part of the Gulf, on the eastern side of Louisiana. This ride brought me out to the fishing village and, unfortunately, to a memorial to the 1000 something lives lost during Hurricane Katrina. This Parrish was hit hard, and being there, it was understandable why. This far down in the delta, the water in all the canals that ran through the area was the same level as the road. Once that water rises and hits the bank, the road will be covered.

The area is still recovering. Houses are built up on platforms and planking. It is obvious which ones are post-Katrina. Still, the area is tranquil and life continues.

Driving back to New Orleans for a leisurely walk along the lakefront became a lesson in finding a place to shelter in place as a storm was quickly approaching. The once calm Lake Pontchartrain, that I saw just days before,had turned into the most violent of seas...water cresting over the levee and flooding the streets. Yet by time our lunch was finished, the storm had passes and the lake was a sheet of glass. I never would have believed that weather could change that fast and that conditions could deteriorate so quickly.I was thankful to all the kind people who made me realize a goal is not worth risking your safety.

Swamp tour and alligator dinner

It seems that people equate New Orleans with Bourbon Street and the French Quarter, buy oh there is so much more to the city and the surrounding area. There is a whole other part of New Orleans outside the city which really shows the culture and life of this area...the bayou!

 Today I  headed out to Honey Island to take a swamp tour with hopes to view the flora and fauna that  made the area so popular with nature lovers. My hopes were granted. The catfish, lizards, bass, wild rice, and snakes were interesting and exciting to view but couldn't compare to the excitement of seeing my first swimming alligator! What graceful swimmers. And as I learned, were there is one alligator there are more...from a "small" 10 footer up to the granddaddy of the bayou, a 15 foot male, I got my fill of alligator-spotting.  After another boat spooked the granddaddy, we were not sure he would stick around. To our excitement, and ok, a little fright, he surfaced right beside our boat...and I mean right beside. It was amazing to see such a majestic creature so close. So close that if crazy, I could have touched it.
As we meandered farther into the swampland the scenery took on such an eerie feel. We parked in the cypress trees and listened to the sound of the bayou...it was such a magical moment with the dragonflies darting around and fish swirling below...all was good and peaceful until....
Yup, two beady eyes appeared through the green algae ....yet another alligator made an appearance.
As we returned to the dock I couldn't help but feel inspired and impressed with the people of  the bayou region.
That evening my evening meal consisted of food from the bayou.right down to deep fried alligator. All I can say is "yum".

LSU rural town

I discovered an amazing place owned by Louisiana State University - the Rural Life Museum.  This museum, down to the machinery and actual 19th century structures, gave me such an understanding of plantation life during this time; especially from the view of the slaves on the plantations at that time. I never realized there was also a hierarchy in the slaves living on the plantations and this showed in their living quarters.
This place was pretty amazing and had such an authentic feel to the grounds. As I wandered through the cemetery and read the various inscriptions I couldn't help but feel moved and taken aback by learning of the hardships and determination felt by these people. This area was, and still is, so rich in culture  and inspiration.

The tale of two towns

Traveling down the road brought me to the historic towns of Vicksburg and Natchez; towns that were both impacted by the Civil War as so many of the towns on the Mississippi.  Vicksburg still shows the scars of the war with cannons left in their last-fired locations. What amazed me of this town was the rebirth that was happening as people find the need to learn more about the past through visiting these towns, and the desire to repurpose closed factories into living and retail space.  Vicksburg was home to the National Biscuit Company, later known as Nabisco. The factory still stands overlooking the River and the railroad - the two means of transportation for moving it's product.
The area was also a main town for blues musicians as they gathered alond the main streets and pass on their stories. Once again, the impact of the historic events that happened here hit me as I stood in town talking to locals who still carry scars from the 50s and 60s.
Steamboat work was a major economic piece to the area and when this era died, the economy of the area took a severe hit. But people here are resilient; they move on. This is their home and generations of one family have lived here.
If Vicksburg is home of th factory workers and laborers who fought hard for their land, Natchez is its opposite. Home of the beautiful antebellum estates and wealth, Natchez was left virtually untouched by the war. sitting high up on a bluff, the town was protected and only the "under the hill" part of the city felt the impact of the attack from the river. Owners of the factories upriver had their homes here and needed help to run these homes. Natchez was a major auction stop for the selling of slaves and still houses the scars of this time. Standing at the triangle, looking at the shackles embedded in the ground, will be a moment I will not be able to erase from my mind.

Singing the Blues

On the road to Clarksdale...home of some of the greatest names in Blues...
everyone I met told me you need to experience your own personal hardship in order to really sing the blues. The Blues music is about life, getting by, overcoming the broken heart, and obstacles that set you on a path of change.
Driving down route 61 and thinking of Dylan, and Clapton...standing at the crossroads... I felt moved by the history of the place.
Sitting in Ground Zero Blues, I was able to sing my own story of the flat tire I got along the way to my new friends. People are so open here and want to listen and share experiences. I learned so much about the area  and local history.  May short stop here turned into a great night of camaraderie and music...meeting musicians and even seeing Ike Turner's son; a spitting image of his famous father!
My regret is that I don't know enough about this American genre of music. I need to learn more and want  my students to understand the importance of this genre to the making of the States.

Let's Talk Food

Ok, let's talk food

I keep meaning to write while I'm eating so I could get my thoughts down right away, but I get lost in the food I'm eating!

When I travel my goal is to eat like the locals. I try to find places off the beaten track or local hangouts. I find I get some of the best local treats this way.

For instance, while in St. Paul I went to Midtown Common Market, which reminded me of the night markets in Singapore. Such a diverse mix of goods, drink, and food. I had the BEST tacos I've had in a long time from a small vendor. He was so willing to fill me in on the various concoctions he made...all sounding awesome. 

Then there was Prescott, Wisconsin. I had this fabulous seared tuna  on a Chinese cabbage and kale salad....oh my gosh...I was in heaven sitting on the deck overlooking the rivers...I'm not sure I would have stopped at this place if Marjorie didn't recommend it. 

Oh, and then the dinner Mississippi Mike prepared...crab salad, smoked shrimp, salmon, cheese curds....

Followed by the smoked sausage and jerky from City Meat Market.

Then of course there was the St. Louis barbecue, followed by the Memphis barbecue a few days later (both wet and dry - thanks officers)

Did I mention the beer cheese?  a local  Well, take that and make it into a meal as beer cheese soup! Pair that with creole shrimp on a king-sized bed of local greens and veggies and that folks was my meal in Ferguson. 

Have you ever been out riding and keep seeing a sign for a certain food and, even though you might not really be hungry, you start craving that food? Well, Stonie's Sausage Shop won me over. Come to find out, they are a local sausage maker who sells sausages and smoked meats to surrounding stores, and sell the best sandwiches.

Beale street area was food paradise,  but to get away from the tourists, I took a local's suggestion and had some catfish tacos and hush puppies....to die for!

And now I'm sitting here eating, looking at signs advertising the "world famous" hot fudge pie....hmmm, think I might have to go for that!

Walking in Memphis

"I'm Walking in Memphis.."

first stop of course...Beale Street!

What a lively, exciting place. even at 11:50 in the morning the place is bustling. Music is blaring out of the blues cafes, streets are filled with all types of people,...

And the food! Everyone around is eating and drinking "Memphis style". There is definitely a culture to Beale, and you can spot the outsiders from the locals. The area has such energy and history. 

After my stomach was full, I headed for a Mississippi riverboat cruise and learned so much about the history of the Mississippi River's impact on the area. One of the largest maritime disasters happened right her on the Mississippi, yet it is not well known. The culture of the river workers was also shared with us and surprisingly, not much has changed over the years. There seems to be a common thread from place to place I stop at: people who work the river love the river. They respect it. 

With time to kill before my cruise, I decided to stop into the cotton museum in the  Cotton Exchange building. I never realized that this was such a protected, regulated crop! The buying and selling is handled just like the New York Stock Exchange. You cannot even purchase cotton seeds! Cotton plants impact the environment and need to be monitored so the ecosystem where cotton grows does not become impacted by its growth. The museum guide chuckled when I compared growing cotton to the growing of hops back home.

On the road

On the road

Now the fun begins....road trip!

What started out as a 2 1/2 hour drive to Cape Girardeau ended up taking well over 4 hours due to all the unexpected stops along the way. The first being Gus's pretzels which has been around since the early 1900's. Forget  your chain pretzels...these were the bomb! And with a constant flow of customers at 10:30 on a Sunday morning, you know I am not the only one to think that way. The little factory is a nondescript building in the factory area is a German part of the city. I happened to stumble upon it as I was getting gas. From there I  hikes  a few state parks almond the way just to take in the natural beauty of the area. Many critters were spotted today including a blue-tailed lizard... I need to find out what it was.

I finally made it down to the riverfront of Cape Girardeau. You coulda tell this was once a bustling riverfront town that is trying to be revived. Sitting by the water listening to a mother explain the river to her young child gave me a good insight into why more people don't use the river for recreation.the are so many undertows and currents in the swift moving water that it is not a very safe place to fish or swim. When people say you need to know and respect the mighty river, I now have a better understanding. I became mesmerized watching the flowing water as well as the people wandering around me. I can only hope that towns like Alton, Grafton, and Cape Girardeau can find a way to be revitalized.

 The morning in St.Louis

 After a relaxing evening and a peaceful night I headed into downtown St. Louis to get to the top of the arch. It was a great morning to explore the waterfront and look over to the Illinois side. It was apparent that Illinois still houses the industry. The arch is an architectural marvel designed by euro serrinan. It really does mark the gateway to then west.  I booked the 8:10 tram ride to the top in order to take in the city early morning and I am glad I did. There was something unique about being around the Cardinals stadium the morning after a game. The solitude of the street sweepers getting ready for the new onslaught of fans brought on a different sense of pride to the home team.

I made my way over to the arch for my scheduled ride and was fortunate to meet up with a father and his 2 sons who shared the capsule to the top with me since this kept me distracted and stopped me thinking of the small space I was in.

193 feet up with an amazing view of the city below. The timing was right to have the sun cast a morning shadow of the arch on the city below...what a sight!

Cahokia mounds and the riverside

Entered my 4th state today and saw Cahokia mounds. What an incredible place which is so rich in history. To think that there was this productive civilization thousands of years ago that just vanished. The comparisons between this civilization and modern day is remarkable. This was more of a whole village over just the mounds. Various archeological digs took place on the site so there were many artifacts on display at the museum.  My mind went back to the Incan and Mayan ruins of Central America. 

Driving up the GRR on the Illinois side brought me to the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. The river edges are home to various migratory birds and it was fun watching them in the marshes.

The most famous bird I saw was the legendary Piasa. While talking to the ranger at the locks, I learned that not only was the bird repainted over time, but the stone was actually moved to prevent further damage. This surprised me since it had historical significance.

Traveling further upriver brought me to the small river towns of Alton and Grafton which were both major stations on the Underground Railroad. Factories and refineries are still prevalent,but now tourism is a main portion of the area's economy. 

It was easy to sit back and relax on the docks, watching water skiers and boaters enjoying the river. The limestone bluffs against a blue sky made for a beautiful setting.

Effigy mounds

I awoke to a cloudy, semi-drizzly day....a perfect day for hiking the mounds. I made it over to my third state, Iowa, on the River Road. 

Effigy Mounds is a historical, protected ceremonial burial ground on the bluffs of the Mississippi. There are several types of mounds at this site, conical, linear as well as mounds representing various animals. After a informative talk with the ranger, I took a peaceful hike to the Little Bears. The hike itself was very serene and the weather made it comfortable. I have to agree with people who say there is something very spiritual about this place. Hiking alone let me enjoy the peace and solitude this place is known for. I did meet up with one woman along the way who was part Native American. It was quite interesting listening to her talk about her thoughts on the various mounds along the river. Tomorrow I will visit the Cahokia mounds further south in Illinois.

The Rangers were phenomenal and spent time talking to me upon my return to the station and even agreed to some interviews!  We shared stories and experiences...both Rangers knew about Mississippi Mike from across the river and added more information on the family connections to the area.

Continuing up the river brought me to a little town on the Iowa border names Alma, home of a little country shop and meat store that has been in continuous operation for 136 years. What nice people! After trying several smoked meats and sausages, I was honored with a tour of the outdoor smoker and got an interview with the owners son, who is the sixth generation in the business. With a bag full of smoked jersey and sausage, local soda and candy I said my goodbyes and headed on to the national eagle center.

In Connecticut we are lucky if we see an eagle a year. People along the river, especially around Pepin Lake which is a wide area of the river,routinely see these creatures. A gentleman at the center shared a story with me where several HUNDRED Eagles were seen at one time leaving an area. I find that so amazing. Seeing the pictures of Eagles in this area in such mass numbers was pretty up-lifting. It's good to know that our national symbol is making such a comeback due to the regulations which are now in place.

Traveling down to Prairie du Chien

Travels to Prairie du Chien

What an amazing ride. There were times when I felt right at home...cows on the side of the rode, deer in the middle, bunnies everywhere... But then was awestruck by the beauty of the bluffs, the view of the locks and the charming river towns. I love the population signs...1221, 218, 66!

I met up with a lovely family who lived in a generation house, a family home for 5 generations, and have no desire to live anywhere else. I found this with most people that I met...the ties to family and community are very tight.

One stop that I made was in the town of Red Wing. I knew about Red Wing pottery but was not familiar with the shoes. What a time I had walking around town spotting all the "designer boots". This was and still is a factory town that depended on the railroad. It must have been a bustling town in its heyday if the St. James hotel is an example of high-style living for the prominent and wealthy of the time.

Speaking of the wealthy and influential people of the time...I found out so much about the history of Prairie du Chien and it's connection to the fur trade of the time. The town was once all on the island that is now home to just Villa Louis. Due to flooding and rising water, the town relocated on the mainland but original structures are still standing. I am looking forward to comparing this estate to the plantations further down the river.

The beginning...St. Paul and surrounding areas

Pattie day one

Well my much anticipated trip has begun and day one was filled with so much history of the area.

I started by visiting historic Fort Snelling which was originally built to promote and protect fur trade. Luck was on my side since the first person I met was Teresa, an adjunct professor from the University. It was interesting to learn that St. Paul had stations for the Underground Railroad as well as learning how the slave trade of the time impacted our constitution and the 14th amendment. The grounds were wonderful with reenactments taking place. a perfect start for my adventure.

It felt good to walk around and relive the past.

People mentioned that I Must see Minnihaha Falls, so that was stop 2. I met some wonderful people along the way through the Park who were so happy to share information about the area with me. The best was meeting 2 girls who were entering grades 3 and 4 in the fall...they were so sweet and  shared some of their knowledge on theatre with me.

From there , it was off to the Minnesota River Center to gather info on the region and plan some hikes out per their suggestions. People have been so kind and friendly; I'm loving it!

What I thought was going to be my last stop for the day was the Mill City museum in Minneapolis. It was so interesting to learn about the importance of wheat to the

area. Did you know that Minneapolis was once the flour Capitol of the world?! 

(As I am typing this, I am sitting at a restaurant on the bank of the convergence of the Mississippi and St. Croix rivers....I keep losing focus due to the beauty around me and the delicious food I am eating...) At this point on the river, where the Gold Medal flour mill once stood, is the longest drop of the Mississippi River...50 feet.

A cool event is happening in Minneapolis this weekend; the X-Games! There seem to be skateboarders everywhere! 

The 3 rd train is passing by since I sat down to eat which just reinforces the belief of trains still being a big part of movement of goods in this area. Each train had to have at least 60 or so cars each...not like what we see back home.

Last night's dinner cravings brought me to the Midtown Common Market which just showed the  diversity of the area. What fun! After meeting up with a few local teachers, I felt I got a good taste on education, native culture, and Native American issues faced by locals...all while having a fabulous time.

Today was an environmentalist day. I hikes a prairie, saw the impact of mayflies hatching ( and we think we have issues with the gypsy moth caterpillars,), which is actually a good thing, explored the rivers from the Wisconsin side (the St. Croix , as well as the Mississippi), and visited small towns (and I mean small...population 66 and 133) along the Great River Road.

I have to say, the highlight of my day, besides the food I am eating right now, is the time I spent interviewing Jessica from the Great River Road interpretive Center. What a wealth of knowledge and information she shared!

Tomorrow will be a travel day as I head down to Prairie du Chien to look at the fur trade and lumber industries and their impact on life along the Mississippi.

The Preparation

It has been months in the preparation stages and now the journey begins. All the hotels are booked, the contacts have been made, and the itinerary has been set. I have started to make contact with people at various sites. It is not as easy as I thought since it is vacation time, and shifts for employees are changing daily. Most people are kind and helpful though; offering suggestions and assuring me there will be people available to speak with when I arrive.