My adventure comes to an end

Fifteen days, over 1500 miles, and countless memories.

All good things must come to an and and today is the end for me. One last venture on the Great River Road lead me to Oak Alley Plantation and Laura Plantation. It was quite interesting comparing the two plantations which are only a few miles apart. Laura is a creole plantation while Oak Alley has a history embedded in old New Orleans and St. Louis. Both plantations grew sugarcane, which is still abundant in the area. Once again, the contract between the slave quarters and the plantation homes really bothered me and left me with such a uneasy feeling. I'm glad I had the opportunity to view these areas and spend time wandering the grounds of both plantations.

This seemed to be a fitting end to my adventure which was based on life along the Mississippi and how the river impacted life. 

Listening to locals is important

My goal was to make it to the end of the Great River Road, out on route 1 in Venice, Louisiana. When people heard this they were rather taken aback ...."in a small car?", "Did you hear the forecast?" I became concerned with the comments being made and questioned a bit further. One thing I did know was that the water and road were at the same level. Something I did hear was that thunderstorms were reported pretty much daily...and came up quickly, and caused quite a bit of flooding. I also knew that I would be driving out on this type of road for at least an hour and a half.

After quite a bit of soul-searching and investigating, I decided it was not in y best interest to take the trip down to the end of the road...Best decision ever!

After researching and mapquesting, I decided to change up my plans yet again and stay a bit closer. I headed off to Shell Beach, population 202. This town was on another part of the Gulf, on the eastern side of Louisiana. This ride brought me out to the fishing village and, unfortunately, to a memorial to the 1000 something lives lost during Hurricane Katrina. This Parrish was hit hard, and being there, it was understandable why. This far down in the delta, the water in all the canals that ran through the area was the same level as the road. Once that water rises and hits the bank, the road will be covered.

The area is still recovering. Houses are built up on platforms and planking. It is obvious which ones are post-Katrina. Still, the area is tranquil and life continues.

Driving back to New Orleans for a leisurely walk along the lakefront became a lesson in finding a place to shelter in place as a storm was quickly approaching. The once calm Lake Pontchartrain, that I saw just days before,had turned into the most violent of seas...water cresting over the levee and flooding the streets. Yet by time our lunch was finished, the storm had passes and the lake was a sheet of glass. I never would have believed that weather could change that fast and that conditions could deteriorate so quickly.I was thankful to all the kind people who made me realize a goal is not worth risking your safety.

Swamp tour and alligator dinner

It seems that people equate New Orleans with Bourbon Street and the French Quarter, buy oh there is so much more to the city and the surrounding area. There is a whole other part of New Orleans outside the city which really shows the culture and life of this area...the bayou!

 Today I  headed out to Honey Island to take a swamp tour with hopes to view the flora and fauna that  made the area so popular with nature lovers. My hopes were granted. The catfish, lizards, bass, wild rice, and snakes were interesting and exciting to view but couldn't compare to the excitement of seeing my first swimming alligator! What graceful swimmers. And as I learned, were there is one alligator there are more...from a "small" 10 footer up to the granddaddy of the bayou, a 15 foot male, I got my fill of alligator-spotting.  After another boat spooked the granddaddy, we were not sure he would stick around. To our excitement, and ok, a little fright, he surfaced right beside our boat...and I mean right beside. It was amazing to see such a majestic creature so close. So close that if crazy, I could have touched it.
As we meandered farther into the swampland the scenery took on such an eerie feel. We parked in the cypress trees and listened to the sound of the bayou...it was such a magical moment with the dragonflies darting around and fish swirling below...all was good and peaceful until....
Yup, two beady eyes appeared through the green algae ....yet another alligator made an appearance.
As we returned to the dock I couldn't help but feel inspired and impressed with the people of  the bayou region.
That evening my evening meal consisted of food from the bayou.right down to deep fried alligator. All I can say is "yum".

LSU rural town

I discovered an amazing place owned by Louisiana State University - the Rural Life Museum.  This museum, down to the machinery and actual 19th century structures, gave me such an understanding of plantation life during this time; especially from the view of the slaves on the plantations at that time. I never realized there was also a hierarchy in the slaves living on the plantations and this showed in their living quarters.
This place was pretty amazing and had such an authentic feel to the grounds. As I wandered through the cemetery and read the various inscriptions I couldn't help but feel moved and taken aback by learning of the hardships and determination felt by these people. This area was, and still is, so rich in culture  and inspiration.

The tale of two towns

Traveling down the road brought me to the historic towns of Vicksburg and Natchez; towns that were both impacted by the Civil War as so many of the towns on the Mississippi.  Vicksburg still shows the scars of the war with cannons left in their last-fired locations. What amazed me of this town was the rebirth that was happening as people find the need to learn more about the past through visiting these towns, and the desire to repurpose closed factories into living and retail space.  Vicksburg was home to the National Biscuit Company, later known as Nabisco. The factory still stands overlooking the River and the railroad - the two means of transportation for moving it's product.
The area was also a main town for blues musicians as they gathered alond the main streets and pass on their stories. Once again, the impact of the historic events that happened here hit me as I stood in town talking to locals who still carry scars from the 50s and 60s.
Steamboat work was a major economic piece to the area and when this era died, the economy of the area took a severe hit. But people here are resilient; they move on. This is their home and generations of one family have lived here.
If Vicksburg is home of th factory workers and laborers who fought hard for their land, Natchez is its opposite. Home of the beautiful antebellum estates and wealth, Natchez was left virtually untouched by the war. sitting high up on a bluff, the town was protected and only the "under the hill" part of the city felt the impact of the attack from the river. Owners of the factories upriver had their homes here and needed help to run these homes. Natchez was a major auction stop for the selling of slaves and still houses the scars of this time. Standing at the triangle, looking at the shackles embedded in the ground, will be a moment I will not be able to erase from my mind.

Singing the Blues

On the road to Clarksdale...home of some of the greatest names in Blues...
everyone I met told me you need to experience your own personal hardship in order to really sing the blues. The Blues music is about life, getting by, overcoming the broken heart, and obstacles that set you on a path of change.
Driving down route 61 and thinking of Dylan, and Clapton...standing at the crossroads... I felt moved by the history of the place.
Sitting in Ground Zero Blues, I was able to sing my own story of the flat tire I got along the way to my new friends. People are so open here and want to listen and share experiences. I learned so much about the area  and local history.  May short stop here turned into a great night of camaraderie and music...meeting musicians and even seeing Ike Turner's son; a spitting image of his famous father!
My regret is that I don't know enough about this American genre of music. I need to learn more and want  my students to understand the importance of this genre to the making of the States.

Let's Talk Food

Ok, let's talk food

I keep meaning to write while I'm eating so I could get my thoughts down right away, but I get lost in the food I'm eating!

When I travel my goal is to eat like the locals. I try to find places off the beaten track or local hangouts. I find I get some of the best local treats this way.

For instance, while in St. Paul I went to Midtown Common Market, which reminded me of the night markets in Singapore. Such a diverse mix of goods, drink, and food. I had the BEST tacos I've had in a long time from a small vendor. He was so willing to fill me in on the various concoctions he made...all sounding awesome. 

Then there was Prescott, Wisconsin. I had this fabulous seared tuna  on a Chinese cabbage and kale salad....oh my gosh...I was in heaven sitting on the deck overlooking the rivers...I'm not sure I would have stopped at this place if Marjorie didn't recommend it. 

Oh, and then the dinner Mississippi Mike prepared...crab salad, smoked shrimp, salmon, cheese curds....

Followed by the smoked sausage and jerky from City Meat Market.

Then of course there was the St. Louis barbecue, followed by the Memphis barbecue a few days later (both wet and dry - thanks officers)

Did I mention the beer cheese?  a local  Well, take that and make it into a meal as beer cheese soup! Pair that with creole shrimp on a king-sized bed of local greens and veggies and that folks was my meal in Ferguson. 

Have you ever been out riding and keep seeing a sign for a certain food and, even though you might not really be hungry, you start craving that food? Well, Stonie's Sausage Shop won me over. Come to find out, they are a local sausage maker who sells sausages and smoked meats to surrounding stores, and sell the best sandwiches.

Beale street area was food paradise,  but to get away from the tourists, I took a local's suggestion and had some catfish tacos and hush puppies....to die for!

And now I'm sitting here eating, looking at signs advertising the "world famous" hot fudge pie....hmmm, think I might have to go for that!